Starting out with Coloured pencils (2024)

1. THE PENCILS

​The first thing you will need is a set of coloured pencils.With so many brands available, it may seem daunting choosing your first pencil range, especially if you are new to the medium. How do you decide which to buy? The truth is, there is no 'perfect' solution. Many artists own various ranges and use them interchangeably, there is no 'miracle' brand that will suit every artist, it is simply preference. Some pencils are soft, others are hard, some low cost, some high. Many are highly pigmented, others are more neutral. Some have excellent lightfast properties and some have none at all. Whichever one(s) you choose, it depends on the subject(s) you will be undertaking and though there may be one particular brand that covers all ground, you may find you need two or three different ranges to cover all angles. Below we explain the differences between the three types of coloured pencil.

Wax-based pencils | Prismacolor Premier

Wax-based pencils are the most commonly found coloured pencil. The pencil you used as a child would have been waxed based, so it is likely that you are familiar with this type of pencil already. Wax-based pencils tend to have a soft core, ideal for those new to coloured pencils as they are more malleable making them easier to layer and blend.

Oil-based pencils | Faber Castell Polychromos

Oil-based pencils tend to have a harder core. Due to their firmness, they are more durable and achieve much finer detail than their wax-based counterparts although there are exceptions. Oil based pencils do not suffer from wax bloom and artists who prefer a limited amount of layers may find oil-based pencils far more suitable.

Water-based pencils | Museum Aquarelle

Watercolour and water-soluble pencils use a gum arabic binder which dissolves in water. Water-soluble pencils can be used dry or mixed with water to create loose pencil drawings like watercolours. The Inktense pencil shown here turns to ink when wet and are permanent. Diluting water-soluble pencils can effect their lightfast ratings.

2. PAPER/SUPPORT

There are so many surfaces out there for artists that it is difficult to know which type to choose when starting your new journey. A hot pressed watercolour paper is always a good starting point. You can also buy a budget pad from one of the better known art companies like Winsor & Newton. Like the pencils, a paper that works for one artist is not going to work for everyone. For example,Stonehenge paper by Legion is a very popular paper, but some artists find it too soft. Here we explain three different paper options.

White paper | Strathmore Bristol 500

A white surface is the most popular base with which to work on. It is a blank canvas, offering a fresh and clean look, isolating your work and enhancing both colour and detail more productively. Paper can be ultra smooth or textured, but the type you choose is down to preference. A hot-pressed watercolour paper like Bockingfordis a good option.

Tonal paper | Ursus

Tonal papers can provide a mid-ground with which to build your layers on. Cool papers are suited to subjects with blue and purple undertones and warm tone papers are ideal for subjects with yellow, orange and brown undertones. Using black paper can evoke powerful emotion in your work due to the stark dynamism between dark and light. Read our 'Working with tonal paper' article for more information.

Textured paper | Art Spectrum Colourfix

Textured paper is a popular choice for many pencil artists. The tooth grabs the pigment more effectively, leaving behind richer colour than smoother surfaces allow. For this reason, it can cut down your work times and those additional layers you usually apply become unnecessary. We explain more about this in our 'Working with textured paper' article.

3. TOOLS FOR YOUR OUTLINE

Before you start your drawing, you need to create your outline. There are many options available other than a pencil and what you use to create your outline is entirely up to you. Some ideas are offered below but if you use a pencil, add a rubber/eraser to the requirements too.

Graphite pencil | Derwent brand

H grade pencils are hard and produce a lighter application. B grades are softer and are darker in tone, becoming notably darker the higher the number. A HB or B grade is ideal for your initial outline for drawing on light coloured paper. This makes it easier to erase. If working on textured or dark coloured paper, you may need something bolder like a 2B or 3B.

Starting out with Coloured pencils (8)

Transfer paper | Frisk Tracedown

Frisk Tracedown offers an effortless way of tracing your outline. Place a sheet, darkest side down over your drawing paper and place your reference image on top. Secure this onto your paper with tape or use a paperweight if you do not wish to damage the paper, then trace the outline onto your working paper. Ensure your first lines are transferring to your paper before doing the whole outline.

Transfer spray | Ghiant

Ghiant's transfer spray ensures you get the perfect outline with minimal wastage. You can spray it directly on to the back of your reference photo before placing onto your support and drawing around the outline. You can cover around 75+* sheets of A4 with one can. *Number taken from a personal trial count.

4. PENCIL SHARPENER

Working with pencils means you will need a sharpener of some kind. You can buy a cheap sharpener and use it for all the pencils you own, but the width of pencil barrels can vary between brands and cheap sharpeners can damage the wood, so it is better to purchase something more suited to the needs of your pencils. Some brands sell sharpeners for a particular range of pencil, allowing you to replace the blades when they become blunt. Here we show you three different types of sharpener but in our 'Sharpening pencils' article, we go into more depth explaining the difference in sharpeners and how you can use them to improve your pencil techniques.

Starting out with Coloured pencils (10)

Metal Sharpeners

The basic sharpener tends to be a single or double holed sharpener and made of plastic or metal. The metal brand is farmore robust than a plastic one as it is stronger, easier to replace the blades and puts less pressure on the wood in your pencil due to the robustness.

Starting out with Coloured pencils (11)

Battery-powered & Manual sharpeners

Manual sharpeners hold the pencil in place whilst theblade rotates around the pencil. This can minimise pencil breakages. Battery powered sharpeners are quick which only requires you to grip the pencil whilst the blade is activated. These can be too harsh on some softer pencils.

Starting out with Coloured pencils (12)

Craft Knife

Many pencil artists use a craft knife to sharpen their pencils. It allows them to sharpen them to the length and shape that is needed for a particular section of a drawing. Pencil sharpeners only achieve a universal shape and you may struggle to get a really fine tip, so a blade may be favoured.

5. RUBBER/ERASER

One eraser is not going to be suitable for every section of your drawing, which is why there are so many varied shapes available. Pencil form and battery powered products can be a useful edition to your standard eraser, but are by no means the only ones. Here we explain the difference between the three found below and how they can benefit your work.

Starting out with Coloured pencils (13)

Polymer eraser

Polymer erasers are so economical that you can buy a box full for a few pounds, using one for each medium you work with to avoid cross-mixing mediums. Use the corners for removing small sections and the wider edges for larger ones. Putty rubbers can be broken up so you can mould them into any shape you require.

Starting out with Coloured pencils (14)

Pencil eraser | Faber Castell Perfection

Pencil erasers consist of an eraser core running through the centre. Sometimes doubled edged, one has a harder side for ink removal or very dark lines, the other has a softer tip for pencil removal. You can use them interchangeably with your pencil work, but be careful not to tear your paper with the sturdier side.

Starting out with Coloured pencils (15)

Battery powered eraser | Jakar

Battery powered erasers are great tools to possess as they have the power to remove almost all pigment from your paper. Particularly ideal if you are trying to pull the white of your paper back for highlighting and creating catchlights. Eraser refills are available so you can use a different tip for use with other mediums like graphite pencils.

6. ACCESSORIES

The following products are an important part of the pencil kit. A soft brush is a must as it replaces the need to touch or blow on the paper where there are dust particles. Colour charts are more important the larger your collection of coloured pencils as it allows you to pick out the correct colour straight away rather than using guesswork. Pencil extenders ensure that you use as much of the pencil as possible, particularly if they are expensive or a discontinued colour that you can no longer buy. Find out more about each below.

Starting out with Coloured pencils (16)

Soft Brush

A soft brush is a must for every pencil artist. When you erase or apply heavy applications of pencil, this creates dust and removing it with a soft brush is far more preferable than using your hands which can transfer oils onto your paper or by blowing it away, which can spray droplets onto your drawing and spoil your work.

Starting out with Coloured pencils (17)

Colour charts

Colour charts are always good to have as they allow you to compare colour palettes and select the pencil most suited to the task. You can find blank colour charts online if you search long enough which will allow you to print off and fill in, but it may be quicker and easier to make your own. We explain more about colour charts a little further down the page.

Starting out with Coloured pencils (18)

Pencil Extenders | Faber Castell

You will always reach a point when your pencils approach the end of their lives and all you are left with is a short stub. You don't need to throw it away, you can enhance it's lifespan by using a pencil extender. You can purchase individual ones from around a £1, so it is useful to have a few in your collection.

SUPPORT BOARD/EASEL

Easels can be as simple as a flat piece of wood or it could be a standard desk or floor easel. If you have an area in your home such as a kitchen table or a spot near a window, maybe even a spare room that you can utilise for your art, securing your art to a flat and sturdy surface is important, allowing you to create your drawing without the fear of your paper moving around or getting damaged in the process. Below are some examples of easel, the one you select will be down to space, comfort and personal preference. If you spend many hours creating your art, you need to ensure you are comfortable and that you do not put undue pressure on your neck and back. A supportive chair is a must.

Starting out with Coloured pencils (19)

Support Board

​This support board can be placed on any flat surface. The ridges underneath the board help to grip onto the edge of a table, allowing you to secure whichever height you find most comfortable. The legs fold under and this transforms into a carrying handle, easy to transport from one area to another.

Starting out with Coloured pencils (20)

Illustration Desk

An illustration desk like this is ideal for every creative artist. It takes up less space and provides a work area and storage space in one. The tilting desk is adjustable so you can work on a flat surface or tilt it to whichever height is most comfortable. A supportive chair is recommended if you spend long hours at the easel.

Starting out with Coloured pencils (21)

Floor Easel

A floor easel allows you to place it anywhere you wish. A chunky easel like this one is suited to those that work on large-scale drawings. You can adjust the height, lay it horizontal or vertical, at whichever angle is most convenient. The easel shown in the photo has a storage shelf to hold all your products securely whilst you work.

OTHER PRODUCTS YOU MIGHT FIND USEFUL:

Starting out with Coloured pencils (22)

Pencil storage chest

It is important to keep your pencils well protected at all times to minimise any damage. Searching for suitable storage can be difficult, however we came across this storage chest which can hold up to 250 pencils and thought it perfect for almost every artist. Read our article on this product. (Not sponsored)

Starting out with Coloured pencils (23)

Loxley Fixative

A fixative is useful to protect your final drawing from atmosphere damage caused by moisture and the suns UV rays as well as preventing smudging. The Loxleyspray fixative 200ml is a high quality, colourless, non-yellowing protection medium with UV Filter and is CFC free. Click the image to read our blog post on this product and see how it can help you in your work.

Starting out with Coloured pencils (24)

Glassine paper

Glassine is a smooth and glossy paper that is air, water, and grease resistant. It is also acid-free and hasmultiple uses for an artist. Use it to package or store your drawings or use it as a protective layer between your artwork and your hand to avoid the transfer of any oils. You can alsouse it to cover your drawing when you aren't working on it too. A multi-functional product.

BLENDERS

Blenders are not for every pencil artist, in fact some don't use blenders at all, but they are mentioned here as they could be useful in your work. Pencil blenders are colourless wax or oil-based cores which help to soften lines and blend colours together. Blenders are also sold in powder form and solvent form. The solvent helps to soften the wax in the pencil but make sure the paper you use is suitable for use with solvents to avoid damage. We illustrate three types of blender below, and also have a dedicated article explaining how each work and how they could help you to improve your work. Click the link 'How to blend with coloured pencils'.

Starting out with Coloured pencils (25)

Blender pencils

Pencil blenders are a colourless wax or oil-based blender in pencil form. Many pencil ranges have their own blender. They do differ somewhat as some aid blending better than others. The company Caran d'Ache, provide both a full blender and a pencil blender. The full blender (seen above in grey), is not encased in wood and can blend on a larger scale but can also be used as a wax resist tool.

Solvents for blending

Coloured pencils can be blended using solvents like Derwent's blender pen and the Zest-it 'pencil blend'. The solvent softens the wax in the pencil allowing you to achieve a smooth blend of colour. Blender pens have a solvent inside the barrel which is absorbed by the hard sponge-like nib, allowing control in the amount that you apply to your paper. Zest-itis a solvent in a bottle which can be applied using a cotton bud or a paintbrush to blend.

Starting out with Coloured pencils (27)

Powder blender

Powder blend is a product created by artist Alyona Nickelsen. She states that the powder blender makes the coloured pencil medium completely adjustable/correctible/erasable. It is a transparent and non-toxic dry lubricant which allows the pencil to move freely over the top and it can be manipulated and blended like soft pastels. It also allows artists to create seamless and stroke-free coverage over large areas quickly, and aids the softening of eraser marks.

Starting out with Coloured pencils (2024)

FAQs

How do beginners use colored pencils? ›

Start with the lightest colour first and keep layering building up to the darker colours. In the case of smooth papers they take less layers but with textured papers they can hold more layers with the pencil getting into the tooth of the surface.

Are colored pencils good for beginners? ›

Colored pencils are a wonderfully dynamic medium that are highly beloved by artists and hobbyists alike because they're so easy to use—plus they're a lot cleaner and require almost no set-up compared to most other art mediums!

Should you start with dark or light colored pencils first? ›

Achieving great effect using coloured pencils are achieved by layering colours together, ideally light to dark - starting with a gentle application of pressure and building up to heavier ones is the best way if you wish to create detailed art but beware as adding too much pressure early on could saturate the paper so ...

How to color realistically with colored pencils? ›

To create realism with colored pencils, you need to layer lots of different colors on top of one another to create gradual transitions and smooth blends (for example, to go from light to shadow, or to blend from one hue to another hue).

What are the 5 tips for using colored pencil? ›

These colored pencil techniques cover the 5 main ways that you make marks with colored pencils: stippling, hatching, cross-hatching, back and forth stroke, and scumbling. You can see examples of these 5 techniques on the left!

What is the best order for colored pencils? ›

The Color Wheel Method

My favorite way to sort colored pencils is by arranging them in a color wheel. Here's how you can do it: Start with your reds and move through the spectrum in this order: oranges, yellows, greens, blues, and finally, purples. Within each color group, arrange the shades from lightest to darkest.

What are the cons of Coloured pencils? ›

Colored Pencil is less erasable, leaving more pigment adhered to the surface of the paper. Electric erasers can sometimes lift more than others can but also may destroy the paper. Both are paper-dependent; some papers will erase better than others, so test it out.

What is so special about Prismacolor pencils? ›

Prismacolor Premier pencils are made in Mexico and are wax based, making them very soft with incredibly vibrant pigments.

What paper is best for colored pencils? ›

In general, any hot press watercolor paper works well with colored pencils. Next you have the Legion Stonehenge Paper, whose vellum (medium) texture is very popular with colored pencil artists. Lastly, I recommend the Strathmore 500 Bristol Board, which is perfect if you like a smooth texture.

How to fix color pencil mistakes? ›

Again, patience is a necessity with colored pencils! When starting a new drawing, start with lighter colors and slowly work up to the darker ones. If you do find that your drawing is darker than you'd like or you use the wrong color, you can use an electric eraser with a gentle touch to remove a layer or two.

Do you blend colored pencils? ›

Blending different shades of colored pencils together is a great way to create unique and customized colors. It's also a great way to add lifelike detail to artwork, as everyday objects are not just one solid color—they feature subtle color variation, shadows and highlights.

How do I get better at shading with colored pencils? ›

Start with the lightest shades and add more colours and pigments to get the right texture and colour. Loose applications of lines create a light texture. To produce darker shades, draw over the lines with more pressure, strokes, and darker pigments.

How to color evenly with a colored pencil? ›

The most common way to do this is to create circular strokes, especially when you're still laying down your base color. This technique helps you distribute the color more evenly.

How do you make realistic eyes with colored pencils? ›

Rather than color the pupil black, you can achieve that color another way, using Indigo Blue (PC 901) to provide a base color for the pupil, choosing highlights, as the pupil is naturally reflective. Layer in Dark Umber (PC 947), blending with the Indigo Blue to create black. Next, use True Blue (PC 903) for the iris.

How to create depth with colored pencils? ›

Hatching and cross hatching. These are techniques commonly used in drawing and can be effectively applied with colored pencils to add depth, texture, and dimension to your artwork. It involves creating a series of lines or strokes in the same or different directions to build up color and shading.

How to layer colored pencils like a pro? ›

Building Layers Gradually

Start with light pressure and gradually increase it as you add subsequent layers. This approach allows you to control the intensity of the colours and create smooth transitions between shades. Remember to use multiple light layers rather than pressing too hard straight away.

Does soaking colored pencils make them better? ›

The soaked colored pencils were definitely more pigmented and far smoother.

Top Articles
Latest Posts
Article information

Author: Dr. Pierre Goyette

Last Updated:

Views: 6095

Rating: 5 / 5 (70 voted)

Reviews: 93% of readers found this page helpful

Author information

Name: Dr. Pierre Goyette

Birthday: 1998-01-29

Address: Apt. 611 3357 Yong Plain, West Audra, IL 70053

Phone: +5819954278378

Job: Construction Director

Hobby: Embroidery, Creative writing, Shopping, Driving, Stand-up comedy, Coffee roasting, Scrapbooking

Introduction: My name is Dr. Pierre Goyette, I am a enchanting, powerful, jolly, rich, graceful, colorful, zany person who loves writing and wants to share my knowledge and understanding with you.