Drawing pencils range from 9H to 9B, where 9H is the hardest. A common (ie..US #2) pencil is technically an HB pencil. You should probably look for 2H or harder pencil, or 2H lead(graphite) for a lead holder. You can get away with an regular pencil if you use a light touch.
I personally use an architect’s 2mm lead holder (Alvin or Koh-i-noor brand) and have one of those revolving sharpener’s always at the ready. Also, I slowly spin the barrel of the lead holder as I draw to help maintain a sharp point – something I was trained to do from college.
Image borrowed from Paperbag Ninja
If you use much harder pencils, you risk to scratch the wood. A sharp point obviously reduces the amount of graphite on the wood. Also, in which situation do you have a pencil mark, which you don’t plane before assembly?
Nevertheless, I would be interested if anyone has a good trick to remove marks and smudges besides using a rubber.
David
David R-
I find that you will not scratch the wood if you use light pressure. I barely use more than just the weight of the lead holder when I draw a line. Light pressure makes the line a bit harder to see, but it makes it much easier to erase. If you press hard enough to score the wood, it is going to be impossible to erase the line since the graphite is driven into the wood fibers.
For an eraser, I usually use a white Staedtler Mars eraser. These work great.
I must have really soft pencils, 3b is stamped on them. Pretty much every cut and or joint I mark with a pencil ends up with remnants of the stuff right in the joint line. Planing removes some of it after glue up but it’s very annoying. I will look for those harder pencils and try them out.
30 January 2014 at 9:21 pm#26893
I find an HB fine for most woods but have harder pencils (2H and 3H) for when marking harder woods. I’ve tried softer pencils – 2B and 3B – which leave a nice dark line on pine, but they need constant sharpening (chisels are great pencil sharpeners) or you end up with too fat a line.
If an eraser doesn’t get all the marks off the timber, you can just plane them off. Take a super fine shaving and you’ll only lose a thou of thickness so likely won’t affect your joinery.
George.
30 January 2014 at 11:19 pm#26898
I’m feeling rather unsophisticated based on whats been said so far. I use the plain old Ticonderoga #2HB. It needs sharpening often, but that is my “stop and think” time. They are dirt cheap too. For labeling parts I only write with the side of the lead. Its rare that my final cleanup with the plane doesn’t remove all unwanted pencil marks. In the few instances that I am working with a really dark wood, I keep a white tailors pencil in the shop. Works great.
I have most of the types of pencils listed above due to my drafting job, but have never felt the need to use them in the shop.
It also worth noting, I make the lightest mark I can to do the job.
Thanks guys, I will try a harder lead. I think my issue might also be that using a soft lead in combination with too heavy a line. I will try to lighten up.
Also when working dark wood, I use knife primarily but I keep a little bit of chalk dust in a container and wipe my knife line with the chalk dust, it makes a nice white line.
31 January 2014 at 1:34 am#26906
Hi Dave,
Thanks for the tip with the chalk marking)
I’m using a set from Lee Valley – Sample Pack of 6 Pencils 5.50$.
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=32538&cat=1,42936,43509
In this way I can try a big selection and decide which of them I liked more(4B and 2B my favorite).
I also have 0.5HB mechanical pencil to increase visibility of marking knife or gauge.
Cheers
Serhiy.
Attachments:
You must be logged in to view attached files.
[quote quote=26898]I’m feeling rather unsophisticated based on whats been said so far. I use the plain old Ticonderoga #2HB. It needs sharpening often, but that is my “stop and think” time. They are dirt cheap too.[/quote]
Greg-
I need less “stop and think” time and more “start and do” time. 😉
I would use a #2 pencil, but either my sharpening technique is poor or I was using some really crappy pencils. Probably the former. I already had drafting equipment in storage, so I just decided to use that. A rotary lead pointer does gives me the sharpest tip.
Ironically, when I design I like to use fat sloppy Sharpie markers. Somehow the permanent bold lines allow me to see broad-stroke proportions and not fuss over details.
31 January 2014 at 3:58 am#26913
Hey Scott, I hear you. I think there are a couple of good points here.
1. Find what you are comfortable with and works for you.
2. Pencil quality is all over the map.
I’ve had good luck with Ticonderoga and Paper Mate Mirado pencils. Real wood pencils with consistent leads.
It seems that even the simple pencil is a victim of companies chasing profits at the expense of quality. I wonder if craftsman from 50-60 years ago, sat around talking about which pencil was the best. I doubt they did. All pencils were of good quality.
It’s yet another hurdle for us today.
